MATARAM (WEST LOMBOK)

The capital, and main city in Lombok, is Mataram, although it’s actually a conglomeration of four separate towns – Ampenan. Mataram (administrative center), Cakranegara (business center), which is often shorthand to Cakra, and Bertais (where the main Bus terminal is located). Some travelers use Mataram as a base organize trips elsewhere around the island, but most had straight to Senggigi or the Gili Island.

Orientation

The four towns are spread along one main road that starts as Jl. Pabean in Ampenan, quickly becomes Jl. Yos Sudarso, then changes to Jl. Langko, Jl. Pejanggik and travelers through Sweta to Bertais as Jl. Selaparang. It’s one way street all the way, running west to east. A parallel one way road, Jl. Tumpang Sari – Jl. Panca Usaha – Jl. Pancawarga – Jl. Pendidikan – Jl. Catur Warga, brings traffic back toward the coast.

Information

Tourist Offices Tucked down a side road, off Jl. Majapahit, in the West Nusa Tenggara Tourist Office (0370-637233), which includes Lombok. Staff are helpful, but it’s only worth  visiting for information and maps about Sumbawa.

West Lombok Tourist Office (0370-621658) has little information to offer beyond leaflets.

Money Most of the Banks are located along the main road through Cakra. Most of them will change cash and travelers cheques. There a several ATMs behind the Mataram Mall, as well as at bank branches. There are also moneychangers in Ampenan and the Mataram Mall, which open for longer hours than the banks.

Post of Communications Apart from housing the post service, the main Post Office (Jl. Sriwijaya) is inconvenient. A more convenient Post Office is near the Nitour Hotel on Jl. Langko.

The Telkom Office (Jl. Langko, open 24hr), in Ampenan has phone and fax services. There are several other wartel (public telephone offices) around town.

Lombok telephone numbers are now six digits – if you have an old five digit number, add a 6 in front.

Most of Mataram’s Internet cafes are found in small mall opposite Hotel Lombok Raya on Jl. Pancawarga. Access is the cheapest in Nusa Tenggara at about Rp.5000 an hour.

Emergency The best hospital in Lombok is Rumah Sakit Umum Mataram (0370-622254 Jl. Pejanggik), where there are English speaking Doctors.

The main police station (0370-631225), is next door in the Telkom office. In emergency dial 110.

MAYURA WATER PALACE

The palace (jl. Selaparang)was built in 1744, and was once part of the Balinese kingdom’s royal court in Lombok. It’s a main feature is a large artificial lake, with a bale kambang (floating pavilion) in the centre, connected to the shoreline by a raised footpath. This pavilion was use as both a cord of justice and the meeting place for the Hindu lords. There are other shrines and fountains in the surrounding park.

The entrance to the walled enclosure of the palace is the western side, off jl. Selaparang. It’s a pleasant retreat, but in 1894 the palace was the site of bloody battles as Dutch and Balinese forces fought for control of Lombok.

PURA MERU (MERU TEMPLE)

Pura Meru, apposite the water palace, in the largest Temple in Lombok. It was built in 1720 under the patronage prince Anak Agung Made Karang of the Singosari kingdom as an attempt to unit all the small kingdom in Lombok, and a symbol of the universe, dedicated the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva.

The outer courtyard as a hall housing the wooden drums that are beaten to call believers to festival an special ceremonies. The inner couth has one large and 33 small shrines, as well as three Meru (multiroofed shrines), which are in a line, the Meru to the north, with nine tiers, is Vishnu’s, and the seven-tiered Meru to the north is Brahma’s. The Meru are also said the represent the three great mountains, Rinjani Agung and Bromo. The caretaker will land you a sash and sarong if you need one.

TAMAN NARMADA (NARMADA PARK)

Laid as a miniature replica of the summit of Gunung Rinjani and its creater rim, Taman Narmada was built in 1805 and takes its name from a secret river in India. The temple, Pura kelasa, is still in use, and the Balinese Pujawali in head here every year in honour of the god Batara, who dwells of Gunung Rinjani. There are also two swimming pools in the grounds. This is a beautiful place to spend a few hours, but don’t visit to Sunday when it’s very crowded.

Narmada on a hill about 6km east of Bertais, on the main east-west road crossing Lombok, Frequent bemo run from Mandalika to Narmada market, which is opposite the entrance to the gardens.

PURA LINGSAR (LINGSAR TEMPLE)

This large temple complex, built in 1714, is the holiest in Lombok. It combiles the Bali Hindu and Wektu Telu religions in one complex. Designed in two separate sections and built on two different levels, the Hindu temple in the northern section is higher thand the Wektu Telu temple in the southern section.

The Wektu Telu temple is not for its small enclosed pond devoted to Lord Vishnu, and the holly eels which can be enticed from their hiding places with hard-boiled eggs (available at stalls outside). You will be expected to rent a sash and/or sarong on bring your own) to enter the temple, but not to enter the outer buildings.

To get the Pura Lingsar, first take a bemo from Bertais to Narmada, and another to Lingsar. Ask to be dropped to near the entrance to the temple complex, which is 300m down a well marked path from the main road.

SURANADI

Suranadi is a pleasant village in the short of gorgeous countryside that is increasingly overrun with tourist in Bali. Pura Suranadi is one of the holist Hindu in Lombok. Set in pleasant gardens, it’s noted for its bubbling, icy cold spring water and restored baths with ornate Balinese carvings, plus the obligatory holy eels. Opposite the market is a small forest sanctuary, Hutan Wisata Suranadi. Although neglected, it’s a shady a quiet for short hikes and bird-watching.

SESAOT AND AROUND

About 5km from Suranadi is Sesaot, a charming market town on the edge of a forest. There are some gorgeous picnic spot and you can swim in the river. The water is very cool and is considered holy as it come straight from Gunung Rinjani. There is regular transport from Narmada, and bites are available at the Warung along the main street.

Further east, Air Nyet is another pretty village with more option for swimming and picnics. Ask directions for the unsigned turn-off in the middle of Sesaot. The bridge and road to Air Nyet are rough, but it’s a lovely stroll (about 3km) from Sesaot, otherwise charter a vehicle from Sesaot or Narmada.

GUNUNG PENGSONG

The Balinese temple is 9km south of Mataram, and has great views of rice fields, volcanoes and the sea. The area was use by retreating Japanese soldiers to hide during WWII, and remnants of cannons can be found, as well as plenty of pesky monkeys. Try to get there early in the morning before the clouds envelop Gunung Rinjani. There’s no set Admission charge, but you’ll have to tip the caretaker. There is very little direct public transport from Mataram, charter a vehicle.

BANYUMULEK

This is one of the main pottery centre in Lombok, specializing in decorated pots and pots with a woven fibre covering, as well as more traditional urns and water flasks. It’s close to the city, a couple of kilometers west of the Sweta-Lembar road.

LEMBAR HARBOR

Lembar is the port for Pelni liners, the Mabua Express and ferries to/from Bali, including the Padang Bae Express. There is no reason to stay the night given the transport connections with Mataram and Senggigi. Plenty of Bemo shuttle back and forth between Lembar and the Mandalika terminal in Bertais, or you can catch one stop at the market in Cakra. See getting there and a way at the start of the Lombok section in this chapter for details on the ferries and boats between Bali and Lembar.