MOUNT RINJANI INFORMATION

Rinjani is the highest mountain in Lombok and second-highest in Indonesia, at 3726m it soars above the island. Its huge crater contains a large, crescent-shaped lake, Danau Segare Anak (Child of the sea), which is about 6km across at its widest point. Rinjani has a series of natural hot springs known as Air Kalak, on the northeastern side of this crater, which are said to have healing powers, particularly for skin diseases. The lake is 600 vertical meters below the crater rim, and in the middle of its curve is the new cone, Gunung Baru (also known as Gunung Barujari), which is only a couple of hundred years old. Rinjani is an active volcano and erupted as recently as 1994, change the shape of this inner cone and sprinkling ash over much of Lombok.

Both the Balinese and Sasaks revere Rinjani. To the Balinese, it is equal to Gunung Agung, a seat of the Gods, and many Balinese make an unual pilgrimage here. In a ceremony called Pekelem the people throw jewelry into the lake and make offerings to the spirit of the mountain. Some Sasaks make several pilgrimages a year-full moon in their favorite time for paying respect to the mountain and curing ailments by bathing in Air Kalak.

The climb to the crater lake is not to be taken lightly. Don't try it during wet season (November to March), because the tracks will be slippery and dangerous, due to these factors the national park usually closes the Rinjani Trek for the first tree months of the years. June to August is the only time you are guaranteed (well, almost) no rain or cloud, but it can still get very cold at the summit.

There are few possibilities, from a strenuous dash to the rim and back, to a five day trek around the summit. Most visitor stay in Senaru and climb the northern route to the crater lake and return the same way - this route is easily accessible and has better service for trekkers. For the fastest summit climb, you should start from Sembalun Lawang on the eastern side. See the boxed text 'Climbing Gunung Rinjani' for more details of the main climb.

GUIDE AND PORTERS

Experienced trekkers can make it from Senaru to the hot springs and back without a guide - the trail is well defined. From Sembalun Lawang it is important to take a guide as trails are less clear. Climbing to the summit of Rinjani is generally undertaken in the dark to meet the sunrise, so it is important to have someone who knows the way.

Make you contract guides and porters from the centers in Senaru and Sembalun Lawang, as they are licensed for your security. Guides cost Rp.150.000/day and porters Rp. 100.000/day. Guides are knowledgeable and informative, but won,t carry anything for you, so take at least one porter. You also have to provide food, water and transport for them, and probably cigarettes as well.

EQUIPMENT

There are some crude shelters on the way, but don't rely on them-sleeping bag and ten are essential. RTC charges the following per day two-/tree-person tents Rp.50.000/day, sleeping bag Rp. 25.000/day, sleeping mattresses Rp. 15.000/day, cooking geer Rp. 35.000/day, and radios Rp. 25.000. You'll also need solid footwear, layers of warm clothing and wet weather gear, but these can also be hired from RTC.

FOOD AND SUPPLIES

Trek organization at RTC and RIC can arrange trekking food, otherwise bring rise, instant noodles, sugar, tea, coffee, eggs, biscuit or bread, some tins of fist or meat (end a can opener), unions, fruit and anything else that keep you ticking. It's better to buy most of these supplies in Mataram or Senggigi, where it's cheaper and there's more chois, but there's a fair range in Senaru. Take plenty of water (there are some water sources along the way, however), matches and a torch (flashlight).

RESPONSIBLE TREKKING

Take a stove so you don't to deplete the limited supply of firewood. Carry all rubbish out with you and make sure others in your party do the same.

ROUTE UP RINJANI

The most-often trekked route is described in the boxed text 'Climbing Gunung Rinjani' later, but you can climb to the crater from Torean, a small village southeast of Bayan. The trail follow Kokok Putih (the streams that flows from Segare Anak Lake and Hot Springs), but it's hard to find-you'll need a guide.

You can also climb the southern side of Rinjani from either Sesaot and Tetebatu. Either route will involve at least one night camping in the jungle and you may not see a views at all until you get above the tree line. Again, a guide as essential. A better option from the south is from Sapit to Pelawangan II.

Gunung Baru (2315m) is the cone in the middle of Danau Segara Anak. It's my look tempting but it's very dangerous climb, as many of the trails were wiped out in the 1994 eruption. The track around the lake to loose, so if you start sliding or failing there is nothing to stop you - people have drowned. Definitely take a guide and expect a six-hour round trip from the hot springs.

GUNUNG RINJANI SECURITY WARNING

During 1999 and 2000, there were several robbiries and attacks by armed gangs at camps site along the trail and nearby villages. This had a very negative impact on trekking at Rinjani from which it is only just recovering. Security is much improved in the last couple of years, and the community tourism initiative put in place through the Rinjani Trek Center (RTC) ensure that everyone involved trekking at Rinjani is doing their best to ensure such incidents never haven again. Contact RTC in advance for the latest information.

CLIMBING MOUNT RINJANI

The ascent usually from Senaru in the north. Independent trekkers usually go halfway and than back to Senaru, but you can walk from Senaru to Sembalun Lawang and then take public transport or charter a Bemo back to Senaru. The trail from Pelawangan II (pelawangan means gateway and donates access point to the crater rim) to Lawang is indistinct. A guide is strongly recommended for this section and essential is starting in Lawang.

Masochists in a hurry could walk from Senaru to Lawang (or vice versa) in two full day with one night at the hot springs, but the first day would be very difficult and it doesn't include the climb to the top. More usual is three day walk to the hot springs and back from Senaru, or four-or five-day full-circuit including the ascent of Rinjani. The minimum time for the circuit is four days/three nights. The last day of the full circuit is a long slog, but is downhill all the way after the hard climb to includes another night at the hot springs.

The Rinjani Trek to Crater Lake and Hot Springs

• Day 1 Senaru to Pos III (five or six hours)
• Day 2 Pos III to Hot Springs (three to four hours)
• Day 3 Hot Springs to Senaru (eight to nine hours)

Full Circuit

• Day 1 Senaru to Pos III (five to six hours)
• Day 2 Pos III to Hot Springs (three to four hours)
• Day 3 Hot Springs to Pelawangan II (three to four hours)
• Day 4 Pelawangan II to Rinjani Summit and further on to Sembalun (10 to 11 hours)

Senaru to Pos III (five to six hours)

At the southern end of the village is the Rinjani Trek Center (RTC) where you register and pay the pack fee. Just beyond the post the trail forks – continue strait ahead on the right fork. The trail climbs steadily through scrubby farm land for about half an hour to the sign at the entrance to Gunung (mount) Rinjani National Park. The wide trail climbs for another 2.5 hours until you reach post II (1500m), where three is shelter. Water can be found 100m down the slopes from the trail, but it should be treated or boiled.

Another 1.5 hours steady walk uphill brings you to post III (2000m), where there’s another 2 shelters in disrepair. Water is 100m off the trail to the right, but sometimes evaporates in the dry season. Post III is the usual place to camp at the end of the first day.

Pos III to Segara Anak and Hot Springs (four hours)

From Post III, it takes about 1.5 hours to reach the rim, Pelawangan I, at an attitude of 2641m. Set off very early to arrive at the crater rim for the stuning sunrise. It’s possible to camp at Pelawangan I, but the drawbacks are that level sites are limited, there is no water and it can be very blustery.

It takes about two hours to descend to Segara Anak and around to the hot springs. The first hour is a very steep descent to involves low-grade rock climbing in parts. From the bottom to the crater wall, it is then an easy 30-minute walk across undulating terrain’s around the lake’s edge.

There are several place to camp, but most prefer to be near the hot springs to soak their weary body and recuperate. There are also some coves near the hot springs. The nicest camp sites are at the lake’s edge and fresh water can be gathered from a springs near the hot springs.

Some hikers spend two nights, or even more, at the lake but most head back to Senaru the next day. The climb back up the rim is certainly taxing-allow at least three hours and start early to make it back to Senaru in one day. Allow five hours from the rim down to Senaru. The last Bemo down the mountain leaves at around 4pm.

Rather and retrace your steps, the best option is the press on the Sembalun Lawang and than arrange transport back to Senaru to pick up you gear.

Hot Springs to Pelawangan II (three to four hours)

The trail starts beside the lest shelter at the hot springs and heads away from the lake for about 100m before veering right. The trail traverses the northern slope of the crater, away from the lake, and it’s lake it takes about three hours until you finally reach the crater rim (2639m).

At the rim sign points the way back to Segara Anak. Water can be found down the slope near the sign. The trail forks here – go straight on the Lawang or continue along the rim to the camp site on a bare ridge.

Pelawangan II to Rinjani Summit (five to six hours return)

Gunung (mount) Rinjani stretches in an arc above the camp site at Pelawangan II and locks deceptively close. Start the climb at 3am in order to reach the summit in time for the sunrise before the clouds roll in.

It takes about 45minutes to clamber up a steep, slippery and indistinct trail to the ridge that leads to Rinjani. Once on the ridge it’s a relatively easy walk gradually uphill, for an hour on so. After about an hour heading up towards what looks like the peak, the real summit of Rinjani looms behind and towers above you.

The trail then gets steeper and steeper. About 350m before the summit, the scree is composed of loose, fist-size rocks-it easier to scramble on all fours. This section can take one hour. The views from the top are truly magnificent on a clear day. The descent is much easier, but take it easy on the scree. In total it take three hours or more to reach the summit, two to get back down.

Pelawangan II to Sembalun Lawang (five to six hour)

After heaving negotiated the park it is possible to reach Lawang the same day. After a two-hour descent, it is a long and hot three-hour walk. Head of early to avoid as much of the heat of the day as possible and make sure you have plenty of water.

From the camp site, head back along the ridge-crest and couple of hundred meters past the turn-off to Danau Segara Anak is the signposted turn the right leading down a subsidiary ridge to Pada Balong and Sembalun Lawang. Once on the trail, it’s easy to follow and takes around two hours to reach the bottom.

After the bottom of the ridge (Pada Balong shelter 1800m) the trail levels out and crosses undulating to flat grassland all the way to Sembalun Lawang. An hour’s walk will bring you to Tengengean shelter (1500m), a relatively new shelter, and than it is another 30minutes to Pemantauan shelter (1300m). Early in the season long grass obscures the trail until about 30 minutes beyond Pemantauan. The trail crosses many bridges and at the final bridge, just before it climbs uphill to a lone tree, the trail seems to fork, take the right fork and climb the rise.

From here the trail follow the flank of Rinjani before swinging around to Lawang at the end. A guide is strongly recommended for this part of the trip.

Starting from Sembalun Lawang, it is six or seven hours to Pelawangan II and guide is essential. It is much harder to get your bearings walking up the mountain, an the trail is all but impossible to find on your own. This is an easier walk to the rim than from Senaru, with only a three hour walk up the ridge. Before starting off, sign in at the Rinjani Information Center (RIC) and pay the fee.

Climbing at Night

If you travel light and climb fast you can reach the crater rim from Senaru in about six hours – it’s is approximately a 2040m altitude gain in 10km. Armed with a torch, some moonlight and a guide, set off at midnight and you’ll be three sunrise. Coming back takes about five hours. Take lots of snacks and water.

Around the Rim

If you reach Pelawangan I early in the day, you can follow the crater rim around to the east for about 3km to Gunung (mount) Sangkareang (2919m). This point overlooks the gap in the rim where the stream from the hot springs flows out the crater and northeast towards the sea. It’s not an easy walk, however, and the track is narrow and very exposed in the places.

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