KUTA BEACH LOMBOK

The beach base for this region is Kuta (some time's splet 'Kute'), a magnificent stretch of white sand and turquoise sea with rugged hills looming above it. It has far, far fewer tourists and facilities than the (in)famous Kuta Beach area in Bali, and the scary development plans touted in the late 1990s thankfully haven't material. People flock to Kuta for the annual Nyale fishing celebration (see the boxed text 'Nyale Fishing Festival' in this section). The main tourist season is August, for the rest of the year, Kuta is quiet and laid back.

Information Several places change money, including Kuta Indah Hotel and Segara Anak Cottages, which is also postal agency. There is a small wartel and Internet Cafe in town. Some female readers have reported hassles and even being speid on in Kuta. Take care with guys who hang around budget Hotels and check the room for peep-hotels.

Surfing Plenty of good waves break on the reefs, including 'lefts' and 'rights' in the bay in front of Kuta, and some more of the reefs east of Tanjung Aan. Local boatmen will take you out for around Rp. 40.000. About 7km east of Kuta is the fishing village of Gerupuk, where there are potential breaks on the reefs at the entrance of the Teluk Gerupuk (Gerupuk Bay). There are planty of breaks further out, but nearly all need a boat, the current charter rate is a negotiable Rp. 475.000 per day.

For Surfing trips, repairs and surfboard rentals (Rp. 60.000 per day).

Getting There and Around Public transport directly to kuta from the Mandalika Terminal near Mataram is not frequent, it is probably necessary to change in Praya or Sengkol. Travel early or you may get stuck and have to charter a vahicle some of the way. Lombok Advertising Groups (+6285238773045) , base in Kuta Area, has one tourist shuttle bus, rented motorbike and private transfer per day to Mataram and around Lombok.

EAST OF KUTA

Quite good roads traverse the coats to the east, passing of beautiful bays punctuated by headlands. There's public transport, but getting about is easier with a motorbike.

Pantai Seger (Seger Beach) is about 2km east around the first headland, within walking distance. An enormous rock another 2km further east offers superb view across the countryside if you climb it early in the morning. From Kuta the road goes 5km east to Tanjung Aan, where there are two classic beaches with very fine, powdery with sand. The road continues another 3km to the fishing village of Gerupuk, where there's a market of Tuesday. Alternatively, turn northeast just before Tanjung Aan and go to Awang, a fishing village wit a sideline in seaweed harvesting. You could take a boat from Awang across to Ekas, or to some of the other not so secret surf sports in this day.

WEST OF KUTA

The road west of Kuta sealed as far as Selong Blanak, which is a lovely sandy bay. The road doesn't follow the coast closely, but there are regular and spectacular ocean vistas. In between are more fine beaches like Mawun, Tampah and Mawi, but you have to detour to find them. They are all known the have surfing possibilities in the right conditions.

From Pengantap, you climb across a headland to descend to another superb bay, which you follow around for about 1km. Look out for the turn off west to Blongas, which is a very steep, rough and winding road with breathtaking scenery. There are some good places for surfing and diving. Contact Nengah Edy (+6285238773045) for more details.

NYALE FISHING FESTIVAL

On the 19th day of the 10th month in the Sasak calender-generally February or March-hundreds of sasak gather on the beach at Kuta, Lombok. When night falls, fires are built and young people sit around competing with each other in rhyming couplets called pantun. At dawn the next day, the first nyale ( worm-like fish ) are caught, after which it's time for the teenagers to have fun. In a colourfull procession, boys and girls sail out to sea - in different boats - and chase one another with lots of noise and laughter. The nyale are eaten raw or grilled, and are believed to have aph-rodisiac properties. A good catch is a sign that the rice harvest will also be good.

SOUTH LOMBOK SECURITY WARNING

Tourists have been threatened and robbed at knife point on the back roads of South Lombok, in particular around Mawi. Ask around about the latest situation and do not leave vehicles unattended - find a local to watch it for a fee.

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